Showing posts with label Soviet Union. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Soviet Union. Show all posts

01 March 2010

How can you tell if you are in post-Soviet Union?

Normally I post my own writings here but I just could not resist this hillarious post by Carpetblogger. "How Can I Tell If I am In Crapistan?". I prefer not use the word "Crap" for the countries that I currently make business with but (excluding Baltic States) all post-Soviet Union countries may adhere to this list. Examine the list carefully, since it may give you a hint about what you will face (if you already have not)
Do passengers applaud after the plane lands?

Do passengers jump out of their seats just after the plane touches down (before the applause, even), grab their bags from the bins and run toward the front? (There is an inverse relationship between the likelihood passengers do this and the importance of the activities those passengers are rushing off the plane to get started doing.)

Are most bags on the carousel swathed in high-tension plastic wrap or held together with packing string? (Again, there is an inverse relationship between the amount of plastic wrap used and the value of the bags' contents.)

Can you see any signs, advertisements or instructions written in Cyrillic, even though you are in a country that does not use the Cyrillic alphabet? (But! It is axiomatic that if you are in a country that uses Cyrillic, you are in Crapistan. Don't even try to argue otherwise because you are wrong.)

Are you struck by the talent of local (Chinese!) designers in the medium of Bedazzling?

Pointy shoes. On men (that's sort of a gimme -- if you can't recognize this, you probably aren't ready for Crapistan). Shiny suits, too.

Do you see more than ten people carrying rainbow-colored "Rave Girl" plastic shopping bags?

Is Nescafe marketed as a superior alternative to coffee?

Can you buy beer in sidewalk kiosks? In the morning?

Do you fear for your safety? Crapistan is not particularly violent. The biggest danger is becoming collateral damage in a bar fight over prostitutes.

Is the Duty Free shop cash-only?

26 April 2009

Kiev...then and now (Part 2)

After the smiling concierge of Premier Palace Hotel told me about it a year ago, I have quickly became an avid visitor to Andriivsky Vspusk (Andreevskiy Descent...or The Tourist Hill, as I call it) in Kiev. I was perfectly sure that the concierge, who could immediately start modeling on any European runway, would have preferred her share in my probable purchase of overpriced antiques in the hotel souvernir shop, she eventually gave in and told me that I could find some "rubbish" there, especially at the lower end of the hill.

Although uncomparable to Moscow's Izmaylovsky, Andriivsky offers a mediocre selection to the Soviet-relic hunters like me. From all those stalls selling worthless souvenirs and petty artwork, I can only recommend the stall manned by two brothers who can both be over-interested and marblefaced depending on their vodka consumption or mood at that time of day. They have countless soviet and german medals and other already rusting relics on their stall and I cannot say that it is cheap and don't ever bargain i,f they have their beercans on the stall. 

Another good bargain can be made with an old man at the end of the hill who speacializes in old newspapers and communist journals. I am sure that nobody was interested in those yellow journals than me, since he was so happy to see me dwelling between his archives on the floor. I bought a Pravda (meaning Truth, the newspaper of the Soviet Union) and an Ogonyok (meaning Little Flame, an illustrated soviet journal abouty everything and nothing) and he gave me a lot of things as a gift, including the old photo below. 



I did not hesitate to walk up the hill (equal to a day in the gym in cardiovascular means) and walked back through the Volodymirska Street to Sofiyska Ploschad where this photo was taken roughly 50 years ago. Here is what it seems like now...a bit different?


15 April 2009

Hello Moldova!



Once a Russian friend recalled Moldovans as "Romanians who think they are Russians" (He also has another deeply moving analogy about Greeks: "Turks who think they are Italians"). 

So now that the Europe's poorest country (The glorious Republic of Moldova) makes the headlines again with the revolts that ultimately sacked the parliament. Before, it was always the Transnistrians, who seceded, waged a separatist civil war and kept the Europe's only quasi-communist Russian-backed dictatorship and their never ending dispute with Moldovan mainland alive (reminds me of Georgia and Abkhazia which is also gently supported and pet by Russia).


The flag of Moldova..or the flag of Romania(see below) with an emblem 

Moldova (or roughly, Bessarabia) used to be a frontier post of Ottoman Empire (The "Evil" Turks) but enjoyed a political autonomy by paying taxes and sending beautiful girls fto the Sultans (they still do the latter) until Mother Russia appeared at the gates and Moldova eventually became the doormat it needed to brush her boots before she poured down the Ottoman Balkanland to the ultimate objective of warm ports.  It was annexed by Russians and stayed right through the way of attacking, retreating and reattacking armies during most of its contemporary history and met an ultimate destruction at the end of WW2. 


The Coat of Arms of Moldovan Soviet Socialist Republic...notice the grapes below


Then came the formation of Moldovan Soviet Socialist Republic (MSSR) and the soviets poured a lot of roubles in rebuilding Chisinau (Kishinew) and also a lot of Russification by changing the Moldovan alphabet into Cryllic and social engineering the population by decreasing the majority of Romanians in the MSSR, that is the very essence of the troubles of Transnistria today, where the majority of the populatian are Slavic in contrast to the rest of Moldova (which is roughly 75% Romanian). Leonid Brezhnev who used to be the party boss in MSSR then rose to be the premier of USSR and you can understand how those roubles were allocated by the way he ran USSR years later (his administration pushed USSR to bankruptcy) 


The breakaway Transdnestrian region..only acknowledged by Russia and candidate for the worst shaped country ever.



The flag of Transdnestria...it is not a joke. They still use those symbols there (or don't have a TV)


Romanians are the majority in Moldova

Boring Information: There is also a Orthodox Christian Gagauz minority in Moldova (which we in Turkey claim them as Turkish brethren and can speak in a better Turkish than many Azerbaidjani can do)  which may be of interest to some of my readers.

So we can say that Moldova is another confused nation just like Ukraine, where the national identity was also suppressed, many roaming armies and the eventual Soviet occupation and ultimate shift to market economies left deep marks in the nation. This caused the polarisation to the West or Russia. It means that nobody believes that a Moldovan or Ukrainian identity can save the country from the current troubles, only the helping hand of West/US or the iron grip of Russia (a longing for USSR) can. Therefore the internal politics cannot (or would not) focus on the real problems but create politics of fear and retribution about losing the country's autonomy or unity (reminds me of another country...hmmm). 


"Yevropeans, save us from the evil reign of kommunists and let us in so that we can cheat the welfare system and enjoy unemployment benefits without ever working"


"Mircea, take this chair to my mum, she will love to see a new piece of furniture in years"


Damaged buildings in Moldova will be repaired using state funds designated for universities at which [some of] the protesters are students...this is so Turkish!


The latest "Twitter Revolution" in Moldova can be similar to Ukrainian Orange Revolution but actually it is not; because nobody cares about Moldovan nation than they do about the Moldovan wines in their cellars. In Ukraine it is different; Ukraine is Russia's soft belly and owns the outlets of gas, the main moneypot of Russia. So you own Ukraine and you deliver a serious blow to Russia; but if you own Moldova...you own nothing but a bunch of "Romanians who thought they were Russians, then changed their mind and wanted to be independent Moldovans and then made up their minds that they are better off being Romenians in the EU so that their girlfriends would not be forced to prostitution in Turkey"


Police...

I stumbled upon this photo on a web site about East Germany (I know I became a bit addicted to East German (DDR) stuff after my visit to Berlin.)

If the German title "Das Gute Buch-" is cropped, the photo below could be very similar to a daily street scene in Russia or Ukraine: Police checking documents and a shaking citizen waiting for the outcome (bribe or potential incarceration or both)...the funny thing is that is (was) in East Germany.



Totalitarian states needed (and still need) those thugs to keep the population in control...

Another photo online

Take a look at my photo of Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya's grave at Novodevichy Cemetery in Moscow, used in this web site. (German)

17 February 2009

Armageddon Averted

As a close eyewitness to its eventful demise, the fall of Soviet Union was always a myth to me. Although showered with greasy American propaganda portraying them as victors of freedom, the truth of the dissolution which actually spun a rough 20 years was never revealed or frankly I didn't have time and resources (that time) to analyze. 

Normally, I do not write book reviews because I read boring history books or articles or easily become bored when reviewing them (when I realize that these stuff are actually boring to %99 of humanity). My blog friend and a fellow METU graduate Ulas makes it better and more frequent than I do it here. My latest gem (after In Europe by Geert Mak, which sits quietly in an airport lounge beside my breakfast at the time of this writing) is Armageddon Averted by Stephen Kotkin. The full title speaks for itself: Armageddon Averted: The Soviet Collapse: 1970-2000.

I hereby attach a review-cum-article by the author itself. Enjoy it.

How Did Russia Rebuild Itself? Sorry, But You're Wrong
By Stephen Kotkin

Which large country’s global integration over the past two decades has radically transformed the world economy and geopolitics? Which large country is a defensive dictatorship that persecutes any sign of opposition? If you answered “China” to the first question, and “Russia” to the second, you would be in lock step with the prevalent view in America. Of course, if you answered “Russia” to the first question, and “China” to the second, you would also be right. Both countries are authoritarian, and both have globalized, with far-reaching consequences. But the story of China and globalization is well told in scores of books, and has reshaped the teaching of the history of China. The story of Russia and globalization has largely escaped the attention of analysts and historians. This is a challenge I attempted to meet, at least partially, in an updated edition of Armageddon Averted: the Soviet Collapse, 1970-2000 (Oxford), which contains a new chapter covering Russia during the years 2000-2008. That’s the period when the prolonged collapse finally ended, and Russia enjoyed a spectacular revival.

Reagan Gave Gorbachev Breathing Room to Unwind the Soviet Empire

Placing contemporary Russia in global context would seem a no-brainer given that the dissolution of the USSR in 1991 is routinely put in international context. That context, however, is often Ronald Reagan centric. Too many analysts credit President Reagan with having helped bring down the evil empire (a phrase he used on rare occasion) by building up America’s military and bankrupting the Soviets (who were forced to respond in kind). This overlooks the circumstance that Soviet military spending had shot up to astronomical levels in the 1970s, before Reagan, and that in the 1980s the Soviets concluded that Reagan’s missile defenses would never work. Anyway, all the attention wrongly paid to Star Wars and the like obscures the contribution that Reagan actually made – namely, he possessed the vital political credibility as a longstanding man of the right, as well as the vision, to respond seriously to arms control overtures by Mikhail Gorbachev, thereby giving the Soviets the room to destroy their own system unintentionally. In other words, invoking “Reagan” cannot explain why Soviet reform in the late 1980s took the form of a chimerical quest for “socialism with a human face” – which proved devastating to the Soviet system, just as it had in Czechoslovakia during the Prague Spring of 1968.

Why the USSR Collapsed: Ordinary Russians Wanted What Westerners Had

Whatever the misconceptions about Reagan’s role, understanding the Soviet downfall without reference to the wider world is impossible. From its inception, the Soviet Union had claimed to be an experiment in socialism, a superior alternative to capitalism, and in the interwar period, during Stalin’s violent crusade to build socialism, capitalism had seemed synonymous with world colonialism, Great Depression unemployment, and goose-stepping militarism. Against that background, the idea of a non-capitalist world—with the same modern machines but, supposedly, with social justice—held wide appeal. In the Second World War, however, fascism was defeated, and after the war the capitalist dictatorships embraced democracy. Instead of a repeat Great Depression (anticipated by Stalin and others), postwar capitalism experienced an unprecedented boom, which made being middle class a mass phenomenon. Capitalism also decolonized. Further, all leading capitalist countries embraced the “welfare state” (a term coined during the Second World War). In the event, affordable Levittown homes, ubiquitous department stores overflowing with inexpensive consumer goods, expanded health and retirement benefits, and democratic institutions were weapons altogether different from Nazi tanks. This was the competition that induced Gorbachev’s fatal reform effort.

Post-Soviet "Reform" or Chaos?

What about post-Soviet Russia? It inherited everything that had caused the Soviet collapse, as well as the collapse itself. In the 1990s what continued to pass for “reform” was actually further breakdown, as the global economy subjected Communist legacies to a brutal re-evaluation in market terms, and surviving Soviet-era personnel and new officials continued to steal everything in sight. By 1998, Russia essentially capitulated, defaulting on its debts and drastically devaluing the ruble; even the international cheerleaders for “reform” admitted it was over.

Thereafter, though, another surprise awaited: Russia’s collapse finally stopped. A resurgence began. Many structural reforms were, belatedly, actually implemented. By the close of 2008, Russia’s GDP, which had sunk to a low of $200 billion, climbed above $1.8 trillion, making it the world’s tenth biggest economy (sixth in terms of purchasing power parity). This colossal turnabout resulted from newfound fiscal restraint and some government reforms, especially in tax policy, but also from a relentless, China-driven rise in overall global demand that, with the cheaper ruble, helped call back from the dead Russia’s vast unused capacity inherited from the Soviet era.

Russia's Growth Cannot Be Dismissed as the High Result of Oil Prices
In Spite of Global Crisis, the Russian Middle Class Continues to Grow

Ignore the chorus chanting that Russia’s decade-long growth of 7 percent per annum after 1998 was fueled by hydrocarbons alone. Russia’s boom began well before the price of oil skyrocketed. And in 2008, when the price of oil touched $147 a barrel, oil and gas made up 60 percent of the Russian government’s budget revenues and 60 percent of the country’s exports, but just 20 percent of Russian GDP. Rather, the key has been globalization and Asia’s rise.

To be sure, the bulk of Russia’s foreign trade is with the European Union, but in a globalized world everything is connected. Much of what the Soviet Union made or extracted, which tanked in the 1990s, began to go up in price and value not just because of European prosperity but because of the insatiable Chinese giant. Russian industrial plant finally started to be refurbished and restructured. And around that belated shift, something completely new formed – a huge Russian services sector, spurred by ravenous domestic demand. In most American accounts of Russia, which obsess over Vladimir Putin and flim-flam oligarchs, one has to look very hard for any mention of Russian society. But today, there are forty million Russians in the middle class – nearly forty million more than there were in 1998, and around 30 percent of the population.

Cheaper Oil and New Challenges for Russian Elites

Notwithstanding its authoritarian political system, which is nasty though far more fractious than it appears to be to outsiders, the new Russia is as open to the rest of the world as it has ever been. (Russia boasts the world’s second largest inflow of immigrants, after the United States.) Obviously, the summer-2008 bursting of the global boom has further spotlighted Russia’s myriad weaknesses, from bloated corporate-sector debt to a substandard judiciary and suffocating official corruption (Russia’s number one industry). Still, the precipitous drop in the price of crude is exactly what Russia needed. The fall to around $45 a barrel as of early 2009 – admittedly, nothing like the $10 per barrel of 1986 that bedeviled Gorbachev’s perestroika – could finally compel Russia’s ruling elites to enact the many additional structural reforms they have long promised but failed to deliver. That’s the thing about globalization: either a country can compete globally, particularly in human capital and innovation, or it is destined to be left behind.


Mr. Kotkin, a professor of history at Princeton, is the author of Armageddon Averted: The Soviet Collapse, 1970-2000 (paperback Oxford University Press, 2008).

Understanding Russia is hard, as we know, because this country has a special God-given ability to heal from its worst pulp state to rise up like a phoenix. Maybe that is what makes it one of the most interesting country in the world (for me though)...

PS: The contents of this blog will be enhanced as I am now also off to more civilized part of Europe including the notorious North Cyprus...which guarantees a blog load of stories...stay tuned

25 January 2009

The Gas Post

No,I didn't wait until the crisis was resolved...I knew it already that it would "somehow" be solved with Ukrainians and Russians signing an agreement to deter the gas deadlock for a year (when it gets cold in Kiev again)

So let me summarize what this is all about as short as I can.

A few decades ago Ukraine and Russia as we know today belonged to a single country, a federation that we knew (and feared) as Soviet Union. (Sorry for repeating this trivia all along since I still get email questions about if Ukraine is a region in Russia) Soviet Union critically relied on the massive supplies of oil and gas to sell abroad to patch its massive budget deficits to carry on. The major buyer was (and still is) Europe and the shortest path to lay pipes from the sources in Siberia and Central Asia was via Ukrainin Soviet Socialist Republic. Nearly all pipeline network and other technical infrastructure was built in that region of Soviet Union. Everybody was happy in Moscow that they were selling the natural gas from the fields in the forgotten realms of frozen Siberia to the European industry.

The already crumbling economy of the country couldn't be patched anymore by energy based funds because the hardline communist politics urged the decision makers to send paychecks to every communist-wannabe guerilla team of 3 or more armed barefoot militia around the world (when the soviet citizens themselves were waiting in queues for bread). The country collapsed and every soviet republic tailored its own flag and carried on to independence (Boring Information: Only Belarus' new flag is almost the same as its soviet era design (minus the hammer and sickle)).

At first, the bosses in Moscow (who were actually the same cadre but now rebranded as democratic and liberal) were sighing for relief as their Ukrainian counterparts paid their homage to them and ruled Ukraine not very different than The Chuvash Republic (a republic inside Russia). The pipeline of money to Europe was safe as long as the valves inside the Ukrainian borders were in reliable hands.

The patrons to those valves in question were to change dramatically as USA and Europe pumped hard cash to Ukraine to break it apart from the virtual union with its slavic cousins and fabricate a chronic headache maker for the up and coming Russia. Nobody wanted a Cold War Episode 2 in the West and Ukraine was the closest and easiest t0 deploy weapon they had to Russia and Ukraine had a lot of revolutionary wannabes inside for collaboration.

Here are the sides of this deal:

UKRAINE

So what does Ukraine want out of their annual showdown with Russia?

Simple...use the only logical weapon they have against the Big Bear, who discreetly want a big chunk out of Ukraine (the Eastern Ukraine) or a reliable puppet government as loyal as their soviet viceroys decades ago. Shut off the valves and the Mother Russia will go broke...

What are they expecting out of this deal?

Urging the gas-struck Europe to retaliate with a vengeance to Russia and get the most out of that catfight (in cash and political support)

Can they win?

No. If Ukraine doesn't ant to be razed for the third time between the disputes between Europeans and Russians, it must side with Russians for good (to get plenty of cheap gas, fuel and Russian tourists to Black Sea resorts)

EUROPE

What do they want out of the deal?

They want the gas flowing cheap and without Ukraine sipping their share out of it. From foundries in german steelworks to gourmet kitchens in french cafes, they need that gas...badly

What can they do to achieve that?

They can get in a serious row with Russia to force him pour in more gas to the pipeline while still acknowledging that Ukraine will be pirating or get an allied effort with Russia to build an alternative pipeline through a less disputed land which is preferably not governed by a group of people that is not even fit to govern a south american banana republic.

RUSSIA

What does Mother Russia want?

Sell its gas (even the Turkmen gas) to Europe and continue buying overpriced drinks in Moscow posh clubs.

How can they do that?

Urge Europe to create a new pipeline. Since building new things, especially a pipeline, costs a lot of hard earned Euros which Europeans are too frugal to pay, some events must force the European public opinion from sick cockroaches in Indonesian jungles to the actual reality that they don't have any gas left to heat their TV dinners to watch documentaries about cockroaches. So shut off the valve, let Ukrainians shiver a bit and then siphon the European share of the gas in the pipeline.

They are acting according this script for a couple of years and I guess the Europeans have already started laying a pipeline across the Baltic Sea (as possibly away from any Ukrainian as possible). Guess who is supervising this project: Gerhard Schröder, the ex-chancellor of Germany, the prime buyer of Russian gas.

Let's wait a bit and see the Ukrainians turn their lonely eyes to Europeans when their gas is shut off for good from the Russian side...that time Europeans will not share their endless pity with them (just like they didn't during the Holodomor)

29 December 2008

Happy New Year

I wish you all a happy new year which would hopefully bring all you want from life, fulfill your desires and keep you healthy (and safely away from Russia).  Visit Turkey for summer holidays in 2009, meet Russian co-holidaymakers and also help Turkish GDP to reach reasonable levels over human suffering.


Here is a Soviet Santa "Kosmos"...how I like this weird art.

Check what I have written about New Year and Christmas celebrations in the eastern part of the Iron Curtain. In 2007, 2006 and some more. (It seems that this blog is up and running for more than 2 years...)

12 December 2008

Afghanistan Remembered

29 years ago on 12th December 1979, Soviet Union entered Afghanistan to mark the final (and still continuing with different actors) battle of Cold War which claimed more than 20.000 Soviet servicemen and countless Afgan mujahideen and civilian deaths, created a total ground-zero country.



Check what I have written before about this war...and also Dmitri Venaev's blog. Also the book and/or the movie Kite Runner is strongly advised.

The last Red Army personnel in Afghanistan in 1989, Sobachkin the Hero Dog, celebrating the 70th Anniversary of the Red Army

"Take the heroes as example to yourselves " banner for the people in Kandahar



Memorial for fallen heroes


The commanders



The Red Army in full parade (with Lenin watching from the back)




Kabul, the glorious capital city of the People's Communist Revolution...


...and here are the revolutionaries


Photos from www.soldat.ru

Admiral Strikes Back

Like Hollywood, Russian movie industry has recently adopted to the strategy to capitalize on "a blockbuster for a season" strategy. Before were The Watch (Dozor) Trilogy (with the third part still missing) about vampires and larger-than-life figures dwelling in mud soaked streets of Moscow to save the Earth and the 9th Company (Devyata Rata) about the ill fated company in Soviet-Afghan War and now it is another flick that guarantees full theaters, The Admiral, is the latest "Big Russian Movie" and also features one of the most controversial characters in Russian/Soviet history.




If asked a mere two decades ago, Admiral Kolchak (or Aleksandr Vasiliyevich Kolchak) was the public enemy no:1 to nearly all soviet citizens since he was the supreme commander of the White Forces which were battling hard against the Bolsheviks in the Russian Civil War (1917-1923). Much hated as Hitler, he is now depicted as a man of honor, man of love and a cunning statesman who was deceived by French and Czechs to lose a winning war against the "evil" Bolsheviks in the movie "Admiral".




Supreme Ruler Kolchak, in his glory days

The movie starts with a shower of CGI graphics of a dog-fight between a Russian and a German war ships in the Baltic Sea in World War 1. Kolchak (a captain of a mine laying shipPogranichnik then) encounters a fleet of German battleships during a mine laying mission in the mists of Baltics falls outnumbered and outgunned and decides to save its ship and crew by trespassing the very mines he laid a scene before. He saves the day by trapping the battleship, destroying it and securing a promotion to Vice-Admiral, a career path that would make every navy man jealous. He, a young sodier married with a kid boy, not only show provess in the battlefield but also in the ball room romances where he lays his eyes on the beautiful wife of a fellow officer, Anna Timireva, destroying both marriages with deadly consequences to follow.


Konstantine Khabensky, the actor of Russian Blockbusters, portrays Kolchak


Marriages and champagne glasses are not the only things shattered through that period where the Russian Revolution takes place. The Tsar who himself promoted him as the commander of Black Sea Fleet (where he was planning an invasion to Istanbul that would fail beacuse of the revolution) abdicates and the army falls into a bloody revolt where officers are slaughtered just for being "officers". The film shows the revolutionaries as savage brutes in direct contradiction to the soviet films where the same men were patriotic communists that saved the country from a doomed end.

Kolchak, now an admiral without a fleet, sends his family to Paris where his wife, Sofia, ekes out a living by sewing and he still keeps an intimate distance relationship with Anna through mail while he is abroad trying to get support. He returns to Russia and leads a band of troops to oppose the Red Army in the vast steppes of Siberia to a battle of death. He is supported by British, American and French governments and even comes to a deadlock against the communists to think of a march to Moscow.

As events roll, Kolchak loses against the endless Red hordes and starts a retreating journey back to Irkutsk (East Siberia) through the Transsiberian railway and hopes to join with the White infantry still loose in Siberia. Anna joins the cause by leaving his husband (the naval officer/friend of Kolchak and now a devoted communist) and she works as a nurse and an accomplice to Kolchak. Although she keeps a distance to him, she later joins the relative luxury and warmth of the commanding wagon and the later scenes are a bit like leeched from a boring Shakepearean act of love making.

Kolchak, before he was shot by the communists


The White Troops make a deadly breakout to Irkutsk on foot (The Siberian Ice March) but fail to keep up with Kolchak and the Czech troops (commanded by a French General) entrusted by Kolchak to guard the railway and keep it open to Irkutsk defect from their cause by the promise of the Tsar's Gold* and hand over Kolchak to the Red Army. They are imprisoned and anxiously await for the doomed White Army for a rescue. Eventually, the evil reds execute Kolchak and push his corpse into a cross-shaped ice opening in the nearby river (logical beause it must have been hard to dig a hole in frozen ground).

Anna is later seen in a scene in the Mosfilm (the Communist Hollywood) studio where the ball room scene is reenacted in a movie where Kolchak would be the arch nemessis.
The film is supported by the Ministry of Culture of Russia and portrays a flood of Russian tri-color flags, priests and a loving figure of a dictator who has lived a not so enviable afterlife in the Soviet Union. He was ,after all, a great leader and a dictator that would rally an army and a lot of supporters against an equally authocratic and cruel regime and has been a prey in the history that is written by the victors. If the Whites had won, we could have seen his statues everywhere (just like Lenin)...vae victis.
There is also a scene in the film where he flirts with Anna and this dialogue takes place:
Kolchak: And why did your grandmother call you a Shelkova cossack?
Anna: Because I am a Shelkova woman.Our Cossacks married Turkish women.
Kolchak: I have Turkish blood too.
Anna: So, let's drink to the Turks!
Kolchak: With pleasure.
I didn't know that Kolchak had Turkish blood...but we have our own Kolchak's


Harun and Esref Kolchak, singer and actor


Maybe they are related...


*Boring Information: The Czech Legion is rumored to have shared the Tsar's Gold Treausure with the Communists as their reward for Kolchak and brought back with them to the newly formed country of Czechoslovakia. You can still see their "bank" Legiobanka in Prague. Check the building closely and you can find the wall art about the heroic deeds of the Legion.

28 November 2008

Bus Stops

The first thing a fellow traveller would notice after leaving Kiev Boryspil (or Boris' Pole as some Polish-British "biznes"men prefer to call it) Airport (after the unimaginably beautiful and equaslly deadly customs officers) are the odd bus stops on the highway to downtown Kiev. Actually they are not really strange to me since I have seen many of those political un-artworks throughout Russia (but unfortunately missed to take photos of them). They are one of the surviving relics of the once glorious state that had lost its mind in inscribing the emblems of the state and its ideology in every piece of structure including facades, roofs, walls and of course bus stops, where fellow comrades would spend their waiting time in a politically correct manner



Now it seems that a German photographer has already done it...check it out.

...and more in here.

03 October 2008

Has Putin won?

The photo below was not taken in a provincial Russian city but in Grozny.
Grozny in 2008
Of course Grozny is a provincial city deep south in the Caucasus region of Russian federation but just a decade ago it was the most destroyed city on Earth, where the Russian Army had to pour everything they had in their arsenal to devour the Chechen insurgency (and everyone else that was fateless to be in the city at that time). Below is what it meant to be in Grozny in the end of 1990s.
Grozny in 1995
The troubles of Chechen people and Russians (or Soviets) makes a history of itself. Starting from the southward expansion of Russian Empire, the mountain tribes, mainly Muslim, of Caucasia fought for freedom and waited for every single chance to wage war against the Christian and Godless infidels from the frozen steppes who have named the city as Grozny (Gruesome). One of those chances arose when the Nazis rumbled on to the Baku oilfields in 1941-2 and visibly weakened the war machine of Soviet Union. Many Chechens took it as an advantage for independence, knowing that the Nazis had no vendetta against the muslim tribesmen living on top of mountains and many joined the Waffen-SS against Red Army.
After Stalingrad, the tide of war turned against the Germans and their local collaborators in the occupied territories in USSR, which brought a terrible fate upon the latter as Red Army reclaimed those territories. Stalin, the boss of mayhem and a person definitely without a sense of pity, ordered the entire populations which are suspected of collaboration. As with Chechens, many other nationalities in the former occupied territories were exiled overnight on cattle trains to the vast emptiness of Central Asia. Many died on the way and very few survived to return and find out that their lands were already occupied with Russians.
Mixed with a pre-installed hunger for independence and fueled with religion, the Chechens, with many fighters who are already entitled to high positions in Red Army because of their highly acclaimed fighting spirit, revolted against the already crumbling central authority in Moscow in 1990s. The reply from the once-mighty government was weak and the new Russian Army was humiliated by a bunch of heavily armed and indoctrinated militiamen. I even remember a video that was sent to me in my first internship in 2000 (it was the dawn of the internet as we know now and watching a video on a PC was a novelty) and it was about a bunch of Chechen guerrillas decapitating (with gruesome details) a young Russian conscript.
The First Chechen War was a defeat for the new Russian federation with a number of republics carefully watching the results of the street fighting in Grozny. This defeat was also one of the reasons why Putin with harsh nationalistic campaigns was easily handed over the job in Kremlin because the public was in fear of sporadic terrorist attacks even in the center of Moscow. Eventually Putin found an excuse (ordered secret agents to plant bombs in a Moscow apartment and blamed Chechen terrorists for the attack) and unleashed the Army unto Grozny where the separatist rebels had already founded an Islamic Republic of their own. The city of Grozny, with a lot of Russian civilians living it it, was leveled and the rebels ran to the hills to fight back another time. The fight for that insurgency continued for years until Russians realised the weak point of the mountain tribes (that also counts for many semi-civilized nations around that region) that the best possible way to fight a determined rebel is not to attack with tanks and artillery but to buy out (or bribe) his kinsmen and eventually start a controlled civil war in which the fractions of the enemy would devour themselves to a standstill. That is exactly what happened in Chechnya. The easy oil money funded the already pro-Putin Kadyrov clan who have realised that fighting the might bear would just be the total annihilation of Chechnya and they have effectively ended all other armed resistance of other clans. After his father's assassination, Ramzan Kadyrov is now not a warlord in defiance of Russia but but a president of a republic in Russian Federation and in close ties with Putin.
El Presidente Ramzan Kadyrov in one of his public dances. The ones who don't applause will be shot on the spot.
El Presidente Kadyrov and Vladimir Putin, his boss in Moscow
Members of the Viva Kadyrov Fan Club
Members of the Viva Kadyrov Fan Club (the back of the t-shirts say "Ramzan, We are with you")
Now Grozny is being extensively rebuilt and the life is becoming normal in the once ground zero of Chechen War. The highlight of this campaign is the concrete replica of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul built in Grozny to be the biggest mosque in Europe. It is rumored that Turkish funding and workmanship is being used...


The plan of the Grozny Mosque



Viva Kadyrov Fan Club meeting in front of the construction site



Youıng Kadyrov-wannabes in parade in front of the construction





11 September 2008

BelCuFaM 2010

Using the same metro station (Mayakovskaya) for 2 years made me a special fan of the artwork beautifully hidden in the niches. Every one of 34 ceiling mosaics in those niches made by Alexander Deyneka had a theme of 24-hours in Soviet Union, so even if you are 33 meters below the Moscow traffic, snow, spit and mud, you could enjoy the bright soviet future above.
One of them (seen below) was depicting the zenith of soviet agriculture featuring a soviet collective farm woman driving a weird machine through the great wheat fields.



No need to say more about the devastation and the millions of lives lost for "the collectivization" of agriculture in 1920 and 1930s; and here is the result of the decades of soviet agricultural know-how combined with the "russian way" of doing business:
The Belarussian Cucumber Farming Machine, BelCuFaM 2010...coming soon to a cucumber field near you






More photos @ English Russia

14 August 2008

David vs Goliath

Many of my readers are bombarding me comments about the (still ongoing) South Ossetian War and wonder what I think about the war that ravaged the poor georgian boys in american marine uniforms (with a post stamp sized georgian flag embroidered on their shoulders).


Georgians in American uniforms...but these are not from Atlanta,GA


First of all, we all knew that something like this was destined to happen some time. Even after Putin’s sovietique outburst in Munich in 2007, the curtain call for the dissident post-Soviet republics (especially the ones with colour coded and Soros funded rave-olutions) was almost due. Putin, backed with tremendous income from ever rising price of energy (of which Russia is enjoying a critical percentage) and increasing military spending (that replaced rusting Cold War era Sukhoi jets and clumsy APCs of Afghan War issue).

The point that Putin underlined in that speech was the impossibility and insensibility of a monopolar World in which USA (the monopole itself) would singlehandedly shape the economic and political shape through its willing. He added that “Unilateral and frequently illegitimate actions have not resolved any problems. Moreover, they have caused new human tragedies and created new centres of tension. Judge for yourselves: wars as well as local and regional conflicts have not diminished...and no less people perish in these conflicts – even more are dying than before. Significantly more, significantly more!”. So it is perfectly clear that Russia doesn’t want any more trans-atlantic bullying in its homeground and is ready to retaliate...even by force when and where necessary.





Saakashvili and EU flag...



A photo from the good old days of the alliance



Given Russia’s (including Soviet Union’s) inscalability of response to any domestic or near domestic disturbances (every time they interfere a country they leave ashes and corpses behind. For example: East Germany, Czechoslovakia, Hungary...etc) and over sensitivity over its international reputation, any leader of a neighboring country with a smallest hint of sense and international relations would back down or try to find a moderate approach to this “ravaging Bear” (aka Finlandization). And now enter Saakashvili, hero of Georgian “Rose Revolution” and a staunch ally of EU and US (even to display their flags during the televised speeches with local flags although Georgia is not a member of either –and never will be) started to show the world and especially the troublemaking and separatistbacking evil Russians that the world is on their side and they have spent enough Soros money on buying the tanks (that would otherwise feed that half of the population that is now living under poverty lines of Zimbabwe)and armaments that the US has long disposed as scrap. But poking the bear with a stick that a virtual ally has given you is not what it seems to be from the marbleclad offices in Tblisi.



Saakashvili testing the new Georgian firepower



So what is South Ossetia and what does this conflict arise from? Simple...Georgia has not been a place that you would want to live in your retirement for almost 20 years (roughly all the time they have been “independent” from Soviet Union) because the government forces has been constantly fighting, pillaging and massacring the ethnic people and de-facto regions within the country and always beaten by those ethnic militiamen and driven back with the local Georgian deads they could carry from those lands. Georgia (Sakartvelo in Georgian, so do not think it is your Coke flavoured Georgia State) is a country in West Caucasia and has been a gateway to the Caucasus Region with its rich farmlands and an accumulated christian orthodox culture. Those two has made it a simple battleground between Turkey (Ottomans then), Russians and other thousand mountain tribes living in that region. It has prospered well but was foolish enough to ask for Russian Empire’s help against Persian threat which at the end made it a Russian province and eventually a Soviet Republic. This small and industrially insignificiant republic not only supplied the soviet dinner tables with Borjomi soda and wines but also many top-brass communist leaders such as Stalin, Beria and Odzhonikidze.

A typical Caucasian landscape: Mountains and Russian troops


As with all Caucasian republics, Georgia also has a very deep diversity of nations living inside its borders and some has been granted autonomy (= made an Autonomous Soviet Republic) just a couple of years before the dissolution of Soviet Union, maybe then just to ease the ethnic tensions. As the flame of independence set in Georgia in 1990, like all other republics, it claimed the existing interior soviet borders as its own international ones and ultimately erasing the existing autonomous borders and aggreements that would give some extra rights to big ethnic groups like Ossets, Abhazs and Adjars. This erupted into a full-fledged civil war that would last for more than a decade with sporadic battles (most of which the Georgians lost since the separatists were better armed by and even fought with their Russian comrades –including the then-Russian conscripted Chechen roughriders that would later insurge against Russia under Shamil Basayev) Then nobody except Russia cared for that ill-fated country because it was a country that was led by a bunch of ex-Soviet and ex-KGB mofioso and impoverished to Tadjikistan levels.




The locals suffer as their Khruschovka houses are hit by missiles



Another Georgian military tradition: Leaving destroyed tanks for souvenirs


The civil war ended with all sides acknowledging the de-facto autonomity of the ethnic groups and relative peace resided (because nobody has enough will and firepower) until a bloodless-coup led by a young, handsome (!) and English speaking lawyer, Saakashvili, stormed the parliament building and declared a new dawn in Georgian history. Now the US president would be the guest of honour in the birthplace of Stalin and the EU flags would be state sponsored decoration for the Tblisi avenues. The reason was so simple: The World (meaning= World minus Russia) was becoming increasingly dependent on energy and it was disastrous to be dependent on a semi-predictable dictatorship of soviet style (aka Russia) for the sole ingredient of modernity: petrol and gas to power the pistons of capitalism alive. So alternative routes were to be designed and Caucasia, the strip of mountaneous land between Caspian Sea (the aquous conjugate of Arabia) and the Free World, would be the new transit ground for the energy that is not Russian dominated. Sadly, Nearly all of Caucasia is Russia itself or Russian dominated (Armenia needs Russia for its neverending crusade against Armenian populated Nagorno-Karabagh region in Azerbaijan and Azerbaijan needs Russia to protect this land from Armenia, ironically) and only Georgia with its relatively foreign dependent leadership would present a good passageway. So was the Baku-Tblisi-Ceyhan (BTC) pipeline was created to safely transfer the Baku oil by BP through Georgian plains to Turkey, right under the nosetip of Russia. I wouldn’t believe that Russia was too happy with this.

So what would “Realpolitik” do in such case? Look for a soft belly? Right. Georgia is a soft belly itself with a lot of ethnic de-facto republics which keep Russia as a caring savior and Russia doesn’t need to look further for a reason to salve threats to the BTC line that is passing just some kilometers away from the Osset lands. Nearly half of the Osset nation lives in Russia (ingeniously dubbed North Ossetia) and it is so easy to claim that the Southern brothers would yearn to live with their Northern cousins under the tri-color banner of the glorious federated nation of Russia. So I would stay away from the Southern Ossets if I wanted to stay away from Russia.

For a couple of years, Georgia has been pumped by a lot of Soros money and funding (a lot of which ended in the corrupt politiicans pockets) and the military spending was flashing for an upcoming conflict. The conflict came with a friebrand Saakashvili, stating that the unity of Georgia was at stake (because the Ossets have joined their Abhaz brothers to already declare independence in accordance to the Kosovo model but kindly rejected by the two-faced politic reality of the UN...another fact that infuriated Russia) and stormed their capital Tshinvali.

Nobody expected a quick victory (except Saakashvili himself) and Russia sent its crack troops already stationed on the border in case (which have been infiltrating and seldom arrested while spying in Gerogian territory). As their military tradition the Georgians fought, pillaged and killed some local pensioners and then had a hard beating by the furious local militiamen and Russian troops to fly back to Georgia itself. The funny thing is that the Georgians played the heroic defenders of the Motherland as the ravaged troops (in American uniforms) ran amock the streets like wounded Viet-Cong. The Bear was poked and it hit back with a vengeance.



"Wipe them out...all of them"

This is the story of the war so far as it seems today. As a summary, Saakashvili, backed with a bunch of blank promises by the West, wanted to end the insurgency and separation inside Georgia with a quick blitzkrieg against the illprepared Osset militiamen and thought that Russia would back down against Western diplomatic and economic pressure and keep its might behing the Kazbet mountains. Just the opposite, his army beaten, main cities bombared and the promises broken, Saakashvili now faces rising opposition inside Georgia as the death toll increases. Let’s see if the “playing the not guilty” will work...

31 July 2008

Where do you come from?

Those who have been to Russia when it was RSFSR (Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic...simply Soviet Russia) and cared (or allowed) to take a ride outside of Moscow, or the avid readers of Soviet History (like me) are usually amazed with a lot of name changes in cities and towns.

It was obvious that Russians are a bit short handed on naming their settlements, even starting from the Imperial era when most of the towns were named after the tsar and tsarinas (take Alexandria, Aleksandrovsk, Aleksandrovskaya, Petrovsk, Petrozavodsk...etc for example). It is natural that the bolsheviks coming to power through many bloodshed and artificial hatred against everything the former regime represented would hate to have towns named after their enemies(Think of G.W.Bush having White House in Saddamville). So they have changed swiftly and at the same time honoured the leaders and fallen heroes of the revolution. This trend was of course not one sided, the name of a dishonoured leader (like Stalin, who after his death was denounced by his lifetime pal and sidekick Khruschev) would not be fit enough to be represented in a town's name and those towns had their names changed back.(Stalingrad, Stalinogorsk, Stalinsk in Russia and more imaginatively in other USSR and Warshaw Pact lands as Stalinstadt (East Germany), Sztalinvaros (Hungary), Stalinabad (Tadjikistan) or simply Stalin (Bulgaria).) More in here) So in a lifetime one Russian could be from Tsarytsin, Stalingrad or from Volgograd at the same time.

"Welcome to Ulyanovsk, the birthplace of Lenin"

As the USSR and eventually the Warshaw pact dissolved, many of those renamed cities voted back to their old names and usually the ones they had before the revolution.

Here is a list of well known cities. (The rest of this list is here)

* KönigsbergKaliningrad (The once proud capital of East Prussia, the hotbed of German nationalism and now bearing the name of a prominent bolshevik leader)
* Naberezhnye Chelny → Brezhnev → Naberezhnye Chelny (a town in Tatarstan)
* Nizhny Novgorod → Gorky → Nizhny Novgorod (named after Maksim Gorky, the all-star socialist writer)
* Perm → Molotov → Perm (named after the famed soviet foreign minister V.Molotov...also the godfather of Molotov Cocktail)
* Saint Petersburg (1703) → Petrograd (1914) → Leningrad (1924) → Saint Petersburg (Sankt-Peterburg) (1991)
* Simbirsk → Ulyanovsk (the birthpalce of V.I.Lenin, whose actual surname is Ulyanov)
* StavropolTogliatti (a factory city named after Italian communist leater P.Togliatti)
* StavropolVoroshilovskStavropol
* Tsaritsyn → Stalingrad → Volgograd
* Tsarskoye SeloDetskoye Selo → Pushkin (removing "Tsar" from the name was enough for some time)
* TverKalininTver (a famous Russian city and the ultimate end of Tverskaya direction)
* Yekaterinburg → Sverdlovsk → Yekaterinburg (named after (Ye)Katerina and then a bolshevik leader)

And let's have some fun. What if Turkey was a part of USSR (and it could well possibly be if it took part in WW2 in the wrong side) and became a Turkish Soviet Socialist Republic (TUSSR)? Istanbul would be Stalinsehir, Ankara be Ankaraysk and Izmir simply be Izmirsk?...Let's be make some more fantasy: What if Ataturk and his friends led the country to a communist path? Ankara would be Atatursk and Istanbul be Kemalsk?...just funny

29 July 2008

Nuclear Nightmares

No, this post is not about the G.W.Bush's nightmares but a beautifully shot but equally heartbreaking set of photos from various nuclear hotspots in Post-soviet Union. Click here for a ride through one of the man-made human miseries

18 July 2008

Leninade

The parade of USSR-inspired goods continue with "Leninade"...a red lemonade with a hint of communism.


"Lenin drank, Lenin drinks and Lenin will drink" -Inspired by the famous poster phrase "Lenin jil, Lenin jiv, Lenin budet jit (Lenin lived, Lenin is alive, Lenin will live)" see below-

The Original "The Matrix Pose"


Get Hammered and Sickled